After letting the kayak rest at Peng Chau for a bit, it was time to push deeper into the western reaches. The target for this leg: navigate up north toward the Kap Shui Mun Channel, explore the hidden nooks along North Lantau, and make it back before the weather turned on me.
It started out as a proper hot, muggy summer day. My mate Alan gave me a handy lift down the hill with the trolley to launch, and I pushed out into glass-like waters under an initial burst of sunshine. Clouds were already gathering overhead, but nothing looked too threatening just yet.
Phase 1: The Kap Shui Mun Current & Bridge Roar
My main obsession for the morning was timing the tide for the Kap Shui Mun Channel—home to Hong Kong’s strongest tidal currents. The grand plan was to catch the tail-end of the flood tide to pull me north, and then use the ebb tide later in the afternoon to flush me back south.
Having launched slightly later than ideal, the current had already slackened by the time I reached the gap. Even without a raging torrent beneath the hull, paddling right under the massive bridge structure was sensational. Every time an MTR train or traffic thundered through the lower deck of the bridge, a raw, reverberating roar echoed across the water.
Phase 2: Discovery at Luk Keng Tsuen & Cold Cokes
Rounding the northern tip of Lantau, I set my sights on Sunny Bay. For years, whenever I’ve ridden the MTR or driven along the North Lantau Highway, I’ve spotted a tiny, secluded fishing village sitting quietly across the water at Luk Keng Village. I’d always wondered what it was like up close from water level.
Paddling into the cove felt like stepping back in time. I pulled up and found a serene spot run by an elderly local lady who must have lived there for decades, long before the highway or railway ever existed. Sitting there sipping an ice-cold can of Coke in total tranquility was easily the highlight of the morning.
Phase 3: Outrunning the Airport Storm
That peaceful atmosphere didn’t last long. Without warning, a sharp northerly wind whipped up, the air temperature dropped, and dark, swirling clouds gathered overhead. Classic Hong Kong summer warning signs: a monster thunderstorm was brewing.
I slammed the rest of my drink, jumped into the cockpit, and started digging deep into the water. Rounding back out to open water, the sky looked ominous, but luck was on my side—the core of the cell drifted west right over Chek Lap Kok airport, leaving me a clear window to paddle northeast toward Ma Wan.
After a quick stop to check out the old Ma Wan village—now a quirky mix of art installations, restored structures, and seaside cafes—I realized how quickly the hours had slipped away. With daylight fading, I put my head down, locked into a steady rhythm, and powered all the way back to Peng Chau.
Phase 4: The Short Southbound Stretch to Cheung Chau
After stashing the kayak securely on a quiet stretch of beach in Peng Chau, I returned a couple of days later to tackle a brief but important repositioning leg.
It was a swift 11 km paddle south from Peng Chau, gliding past the tranquil, roadless shores of Sunshine Island (Chau Kung To). With calm waters and clear skies, I made good time down the channel before rounding into Cheung Chau. There, I found a safe spot to store the kayak, officially setting the stage for the next leg—which I’ll be tackling with my friend, Nilesh.
What’s Next for the Diaries?
With the kayak safely stationed in Cheung Chau, the stage is set for an exciting joint expedition. Next up, Nilesh and I will be charting a course around Lamma Island and venturing further into the southern outlying waters before the late-summer easterlies begin to kick in.
Stay tuned for Leg 4!
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