Having stashed the kayak in Cheung Chau on the previous run, the stage was set for a proper tandem expedition. My good mate Nilesh was visiting from Australia, giving us the perfect excuse to launch a two-boat venture. The grand ambitious plan? A day paddle down to the remote Soko Islands. But as is so often the case on the water, the weather had the final say.
With strong southerly winds stirring up choppy seas under a scorching summer sun, we opted to stay flexible, take things as they came, and explore the rugged coastlines around South Lantau before charting a course back east.
Phase 1: Crossing the Channel & The Ghost Resort of Sea Ranch
We launched from Cheung Chau, heading around its northern tip to navigate the busy channel crisscrossed by high-speed Macau ferries. Timing our gap through the swell and ferry traffic, we made a beeline for the dramatic coastline of the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula.
Skirting along the cliffs, we pulled into the quiet inlet of Sea Ranch—a semi-abandoned luxury residential complex tucked away on a beach inaccessible by road. Exploring the crumbling, forgotten buildings felt like stepping into an isolated time capsule. To add to the surreal atmosphere, we had a curious run-in with one of the very few remaining residents—a gweilo living out a quiet, off-grid existence in this hidden pocket of Lantau.
Phase 2: Choppy Swells & Surfing Back to Cheung Chau
Re-launching into open water, we reassessed our target. Looking out toward the Soko Islands, it was clear that tackling the round trip in these conditions would easily push us past 40 km of heavy grinding into head-winds. We called it sensible and turned south into more open waters instead, taking advantage of the wind to surf some lively, rolling swells all the way back into Cheung Chau.
Despite changing plans, we still logged a cracking 25 km day on the water before stashing the kayak once again.
Phase 3: The Wild South Coast of Lamma
After a couple of days’ rest, I returned to Cheung Chau solo to tackle a massive 32 km stretch across open seas toward Lamma Island.
While Northern Lamma is famously tame and developed, rounding its southern tip revealed a completely different beast. The southern coast is wildly rugged, remote, and exposed, with dramatic granite cliffs plunging into the sea. I pulled up onto a quiet, pristine beach for a break—astonished that such a secluded, untouched sanctuary exists just a stone’s throw from the city.
Phase 4: Rounding Cape D’Aguilar & Homecoming to Shek O
Pushing back out into the swell for the second long leg of the day, I set my sights across the channel toward the tip of the Stanley Peninsula. Rounding the dramatic rock formations of Cape D’Aguilar, the conditions shifted as I re-entered eastern waters.
Finally, I pulled onto the familiar sands of Shek O—the old home turf where this kayak used to live. Moving through the murky, heavy waters of the west was a grand adventure, but there is nothing quite like returning to the east, where the sea clears up to a vivid blue and the beaches welcome you home.
What’s Next for the Diaries?
With the kayak back on the east side, it’s time to head out toward deeper waters. Next up on the radar is an offshore lighthouse run out to Waglan Island, before shifting focus toward Tolo Harbour and the tranquil waters of Double Heaven as the autumn easterlies start to blow.
Stay tuned for Leg 5!
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